Exterior

Making sure the perimeter of the foundation has a positive slope away from the structure is vital to foundation health. If your inspection shows a negative slope towards your house, we suggest re-grading your slope. Per the International Residential Code (IRC), a rough grade should have a minimum of 6-inches within the first 10 feet from your foundation, which is a 5% grade. This is good enough to create a slope that allows water to drain away from your home, preventing water intrusion and foundation cracks. If you can imagine, homes on hills or mountains are extremely susceptible to water intrusion if the slope grading around the perimeter of the home is not done properly. Though minor regrades are not very intrusive, slope regrading is a wonderful opportunity to make any landscape adjustments to your property or add an exterior French drain. The best soil to use around a structure is a mix of silt and clay which is impermeable enough to divert water away but also has enough gaps so that it will not hold water against the structure. It is not a clever idea to increase your grade with mulch as it is extremely soft and will absorb water without allowing it to run off. Gravel and rocks are also like a sieve. They will allow the water to travel between the cracks to the earth below. However, they are commonly allowed if the soil below is conditioned and compacted well. Avoid plants that require a lot of water to be maintained and avoid the placement of irrigation lines along the foundation.

Although building code allows for 5” gutters and 2” x 3” downspouts, it is highly recommended to upgrade whenever possible to 6” gutters and 3” x 4” downspouts. This becomes even more necessary with different tile and metal roofs versus asphalt shingles. Gutter runs should be limited to a maximum of 25’ whenever possible or downspouts are to be added every 20’-25’.

Downspouts are designed to be above ground and discharge about 6’ away from the foundation. Underground downspouts should be used when necessary to avoid icing on sidewalks or if they are interfering with passage, however, they must daylight at a distance. In other words, there must be a good slope/grade to allow them to discharge above ground. If they cannot be daylighted, they must be above ground.

If the soil reaches above the top of the foundation wall, it may allow water to seep into the basement through the joint where the house framing sits atop the foundation.

Poor construction or rot damage can also create air gaps/spaces underneath the sill plate or through penetrations to the rim joist. These areas must be sealed/repaired, and the soil level dropped.

Some homes are built in such a way that achieving a positive grade alongside the foundation is exceedingly difficult. For example, narrow areas between two homes receiving water from the roof of both properties. Fortunately, there are solutions to this problem. Surface or trench drains and swales can be installed in such a way that water can be discharged to the front (street side) or rear (backyard).

A drainage plan can be drawn to ensure that the discharge either daylights or is carried to a drainage ditch designed to dissipate water slowly into the soil. A drywell system is usually incorporated in the design to increase the holding capacity of the ditch.

All basement windows, including egress windows, are a potential source for water intrusion if they are not installed properly. Improperly installed window wells are a main source of water intrusion into basements.

Window wells should be properly attached to the concrete foundation wall and not to the metal buck/frame. They should be attached level and flat against the wall and the seam should be properly caulked. If possible, height above grade level must be at least 4”-6”. Depth into the ground should be at least 12”-18” below the window sill level. The soil inside must be of the type which drains well. Pea gravel is a good alternative to soil. It must settle 6” below the window sill. Rust is a clear indication that the window well has been compromised and must be replaced. All downspouts must be directed far away from window wells. A reinforced, clear polycarbonate cover is highly recommended to minimize the volume of water which can get into the window well.

While building codes vary by location, egress windows must be large enough for an occupant to make a quick exit from a general living area or bedroom. For a bedroom to be a legal dwelling, it must have a full- size window or an egress window. Windows must meet specific sizes and requirements to qualify as an egress window. Egress windows can be designed in many ways. They can be designed to protect the structure against excess water, patio walk outs, additional living space, and many other options.

An emergency escape and rescue window must have a minimum net clear openable area of 5.7 square feet. It must not be higher than 44 inches from the finished floor. Window wells are required where the bottom of the egress window is below ground level. It must not interfere with the egress window fully opening. The distance from the egress window to the back of the window well must be at least 36”. The minimum area of the egress well must be 9 square feet (width x projection).